This can IMO be both good and bad. Good if they take the existing design, thicken the body to make it flush with the camera modules and put a larger battery in that space; bad if they use the existing design and make the cameras thinner so that there’s no bump.
But hey, we can’t talk much sense to manufacturers who are happy if we buy a new toy every year…
Imagine a case similar to what we had about the default web browser on Windows.
I don’t have the whole context so I might be missing some things, but the whole thing looks to me like “look at how much money I have to burn and how much I don’t care”.
0.17 cents
So is that less than a cent or is it 17 cents? If it’s the former, I don’t think it’s even possible to make a transaction that small.
Boardsource Lulu. Built with Gateron Silent Ink Black and MT3 Susuwatari.
It has been my most used daily board for the past year and a bit more. First split, first ortho, first custom build for me. Coming from a 75% board with traditional stagger there was some adjustment mainly due to the ortho nature (but otherwise I was already using IJKL as arrows on the 75% board for example). First couple of days I was typing at 9 WPM (down from my then usual 90-ish), I needed a week to get back up to around 70-80 (fortunately I was between jobs then, so it wasn’t critical).
In terms of layout I think this is the perfect amount of thumb keys that’s manageable for me (on the bottom left I have Super/Win, Alt, MO(1) and Space, and Ctrl is to the left of A). I have another board with more keys there and they’re not all that useful. I think however that I could do with a few more keys in the inner columns - on this board in particular if I want to use rotary encoders, I have to sacrifice the keys in the inner column, and those keys are useful for brackets and also for some primary letters in my native language (Bulgarian - it has 30 letters in the alphabet). I’ve tried home row mods, but I don’t think I can rely on those as the sole way to access a mod. I personally couldn’t do without the number row even though I have a num block on a layer - so 60-ish percent is fine for me for most things.
I’m pretty happy with the build quality. One thing I don’t like is the plastic bottom - if you don’t tighten it properly it rattles a bit, and every time I go about tightening it I’m afraid I might crack it.
I really like the MT3 profile keycaps - they basically hug your fingers in such a way that it’s pretty hard to get lost on the layout, and it also encourages proper ten finger technique. As for the switches - I get why people generally recommend lighter ones for split boards - I find those a tad too heavy. Also in stock form they’re not fully quiet and have some mush to them (I guess it’s inherent to this kind of silent MX switch). I might do a spring swap and lube at some point, or maybe swap the switches entirely (since I have another board that I lug to the office, this one doesn’t really need to be quiet any more).
Another board that I’m looking forward to is the ai03 Altair - it solves most of my gripes with the Lulu in that the case is fully aluminium and that the layout has a few more keys in the inner columns. As an added bonus the halves connect using USB-C, not TRRS. The only thing I don’t really like is that it has neither a display nor indicator LEDs - so managing multiple layers would be a bit harder unless I find a way to add a LED somewhere. I have the Dark Grey on preorder and I’m probably putting MTNU Graphite keycaps (or perhaps something like MT3 Darkness) on it.
All the boards I currently rotate between (3 at this time) have factory soldered hotswap sockets. I haven’t done much soldering myself, none on keyboards in particular. For PCBs that come assembled or unassembled I prefer to pay a bit more for assembled because it’s generally not a huge difference. Unfortunately some don’t offer that option.
I have a solderable PCB of one of the first custom boards I got a few years back and I still haven’t gotten to building it - I couldn’t commit to a specific switch, the PCB doesn’t support soldering hotswap sockets, and adding millmax ones seemed too much of a hassle. Moreover at one point they announced they’ll supply hotswap PCBs, so I’m probably going that route.
Cool! Thanks a lot for the thorough answer!
What TV box would you recommend?
It’s not even that much of a pain. I’m mostly dealing with TypeScript, very rarely vanilla JavaScript, and it’s even enjoyable most of the time.
Eh, whatever. It puts food on the table…
Yes, indeed, I see javascripts in the wild every day.
It’d be fine if 1) everything from Control Panel is implemented and properly working and 2) everything stays consistent (because otherwise, as other folks have mentioned, at one point written tutorials even with screenshots quickly become obsolete). I don’t see this happening any time soon.
Maybe instead of that they can start encouraging people to use the command line, although even fewer settings are reachable though there.
Wow. Now I don’t want to go to the US even harder than before.
I wanna see them pay for office hours AND commute hours. In a big city you easily have 1+ hour a day irrevocably lost to commuting.
Some laptops now have physical privacy shutters for that - and for those that don’t, you can get one that you can stick on top.
Saving a picture and posting it somewhere.
I see people making screenshots of their whole phone’s screen and posting them just to show a picture. In reality, maybe 90% of the time, if you see a picture on the screen of your phone, you can save that picture, with no pointless information around it, no black bars and so on. Even if that’s not possible, Android for example has been doing something from the recent apps screen that lets you extract a picture from an app’s screen - and that’s arguably even easier than doing a screenshot.
Electricity police, this fella right here…
Sketchy indeed. I’ve seen this as well, and the redeeming thing about it is that you’re locked out after 3 unsuccessful login attempts - so no matter how easy bruteforcing would be, there’s a safety catch dealing with it.
Seems promising, but also seems to be an US thing. I should’ve mentioned I’m in the EU.
NVMe in a phone would be something ridiculously inefficient both because of the form factor and the power draw.